Thailander

Hello! It’s me, a Pakmeng.

2011-11-03T18:13:00.001+07:00

Day: 23-26
Mileage: 2,150 kilometers
Location: Pakmeng, Trang Province

In a personal ranking of the most suitable places to spend a sabbatical year, Pakmeng comes easily on the second place, after Koh Phangan. Very few farang people come to Pakmeng and those who do usually take a boat to the paradise islands nearby. The beach is deserted Monday to Friday and gets a bit more animated during the weekends. Locals come from Trang for a barbecue pork and a beer.

Pakmeng offers an excellent combination of natural beauty, things to do, infrastructure and service. It's quiet enough to put your thoughts in order but has also enough action not to drive you crazy. Let's take them one at a time.

To see, to do

The beach itself is beautiful, grey and soft sand, with spectacular cliffs and islands that break the monotony of the horizon. There are mangrove forests full of birds at both ends of the beach. A lazy river runs parallel to the sandbank, flowing into the sea two kilometres further south. You can go kayaking both on the river and the sea. A mile offshore lies a desert island.

Speaking of which. Pakmeng Port is the ideal base for transfers to Koh Kradan, Koh Mook and Koh Ngai, three of the most beautiful islands in Thailand. Super-class snorkeling around any of the three.

Five kilometers North the Chao Mai National Park begins, a miracle of nature including 200 square kilometers of beaches, forests and islands. I spent a whole afternoon walking on Hat Chang Lang and left only when the sirens announced that visitation program ended. From the park entrance, going another 12 kilometers to the North, you can enjoy the benefits of the hot springs sulking at 70 degrees Celsius.

Chao Mai National Park

Infrastructure and services

Pakmeng is 40 kilometers away from Trang and 80 kilometers from Krabi. Easily reached on a three lanes highway. It took me 2 hours from Krabi, riding on Unirea and including a long stop for gas and coffee.

Once you arrive, you have at least 10 accommodation solutions, from small bungalows at 350 thb per night to the luxurious Anantara Resort Sikao (which, despite everyone’s belief, is not in Sikao).

Anantara Resort Sikao

My recommendation: Fisherman's Huts, located at the Southern end of the beach. Ten chic cottages, tastefully furnished and equipped with AC, TV, refrigerator, hot water and Wi-Fi. 800 thb/night and worth every penny.

Fisherman's Huts

Pakmeng is a paradise for gourmets. A lot of restaurants, serving international dishes. You can have a Buddhist breakfast, a Muslim lunch and a Christain dinner as well. The local specialties consist of fried fish and seafood. Any of them makes an excellent choice! You buy them from the street vendors and eat them on the beach, sprinkled with some watermelon juice or Singha beer. Picnic by the seaside.

Beer, cigarettes, anti-mosquito spray, slippers and sun are sold in all the mini-markets. There is also a non-stop store, on the way out towards Trang.

There’s only one thing missing from Pakmeng landscape: the nightlife. The restaurants close no later than 11 pm and all night entertainment weight falls on a crowded, sordid and obscure karaoke bar. Assuming you want to go on stage, get ready for a pleasant surprise. The list of English songs includes 10 titles and the first on the list is "Dragostea Din Tei" :-)

"Alo! Sunt eu, un haiduc"

Tham Morakot. The Emerald Cave and the Terracotta Soldiers

2011-11-03T17:01:00.000+07:00

Day: 23
Mileage: 2,000
Location: Koh Muk, Trang Province

The boatman put on a life jacket, took a flashlight between his teeth and jumped into the water. You, come. I jumped after him. I had to swim 80 meters under the earth, through darkness, to Tham Morakot, the Emerald Cave. That's in Koh Mook, a few miles away from Koh Kradan.

Tham Morakot. Before.

The tide was at maximum height and the underground ceiling was low enough to kick it. The strong current was trying to push me out towards the open sea but I didn't give in to it. I was stubbornly following the flash light, strongly paddling with my legs. Five minutes later I saw the sun again. First its reflection in the green water at the end of the tunnel. Then borrowing its splendor to the Emerald Cave.

You’ll ask: how come you saw the sun shinning if you were in a cave? It was shinning, alright. Morakot is a cave but has no ceiling. Or, if you prefer, a completely closed lagoon, which can be reached only through the trap I was swimming in. A perfect hideaway. In fact, the pirates hopping the Andaman Sea and the Malacca Strait used it as a repository for their prey.

By the time I arrived to Morakot, two groups of Westerners (Englishmen and Germans) were already there, sitting and admiring the beauty around with gaping mouths. The turquoise water was gleaming, the limestone cliffs adorned with shrubs and flowers seemed to revolve around us. Peace and quiet. I could have stayed for years, taking care of the pirates’ treasures.

But, as we were calmly sitting and admiring the beauty reserved only to the bold ones, the earth started shaking and a sinister sound coming though the tunnel opening froze the blood in our veins. We quickly exchanged some glances: Earthquake? Tsunami? Sea monster? Saruman’s evil orcs?

Tham Morakot. After.

Worse. Local tourists. At least 100 pieces. Men, women, elderly, children, strung on a rope not to get lost from the herd, trying to swim with their little arms and chanting to the pace dictated by the guides like an army ready to sweep everything standing in its way. Within minutes, they conquered the cave with their laughs and their absurdly loud splashing, with their cameras hanging in plastic bags around their necks. Terracotta soldiers were having fun on a team building.

They stayed exactly the time needed for each of them to have their photo taken – alone and with the department to which each belonged to. Just enough for the Morakot Cave to turn from the quiet oasis of the brave ones to the putrid beach of the corporatism tourism. Oh, the precision, the coordination!

Then the guide whistled and the soldiers took their places, lining disciplined on two rows. One hand on the rope, the other taking their pants out of their asses, they resumed the military chanting, and marched towards the exit. Bye-bye. Soldiers versus Pirates: 10-0.

When darkness has swallowed the last rump of tile, I instinctively looked back to my English and German companions. They were leaning against the rocks with long faces and losers attitude. I was certainly hanging the same flag. We seeped out quietly. On the other side, the battalion was already embarked and enjoying the well-deserved watermelon, complimentary offered with the tour. A second army was in line and ready for the attack.

However: the tourist ships leave Pakmeng at 9 am. If you manage to get to Morakot by 8 am, you have one hour of peace. After that you continue to Koh Kradan. This way you’ll be always ahead of THEM. The boat should be no more than 1,000 thb for a half-day trip. Drinking water and snorkelling equipment included.

Koh Kradan. Life like a cookie jar.

2011-11-01T21:03:00.001+07:00

Day: 23

Mileage: 2,000

Location: Pakmeng,Trang province

Thailand is amongthe most beautiful countries in the world. Trang is one of the mostbeautiful provinces of Thailand. AndKoh Kradan is considered as the most beautiful island in Trang. Andrightly so.

When you first step on Kradan you think you entered a cookie jar. It makes yourun back and forth tasting everything: the white beach sugar, the caramelrocks, the jungle green glaze or the colored fish-shaped candies. You eat andthen eat again and you cannot stop eating. You get to the point where you endup under a coconut tree, belly rounded and smiling like Jerry after eating awhole wheel of cheese (while Tom was out in the city).

As it covers only 4square kilometers, Kradan can be slowly crossed on foot between breakfast andlunch. After you had lunch, you can surround the island, this time on a kayakrented from Paradise Beach. If your arms are strong enough try going around byswimming. Take care of the strong currents.

What to do onKoh Kradan?

I could easily answer you “nothing” as I truly believe this is themost appropiate activity to engage yourself into. If you are that kind of youngand restless tourist you’ll be on your way in a few hours. But if you want torelax, just you and the sea and a good book, take a few days and lay on theboard. It’s good for you back and other parts.

The underwaterweddings have become a tradition in Trang and Koh Kradan holds the Guiness Bookof Records for the biggest wedding organized below the water surface. Not muchdifference from a normal wedding, I guess, except you have to remember to takeoff the snorkel to kiss your beloved half.

Where to stay?

AlthoughI did not expect that an ecosystem so fragile to bear too much infrastructure,Kradan offers accommodation options for all tastes and all pockets.

Kradan Beach Resort- a series of bungalows lining on the beach, 10 meters away from the sea. Quiteclean. Lowest price: 760 THB (Fan room, low season). The resort has also arestaurant which is open every now and then.

Lost Paradise Resort- located in the jungle, but sufficiently close to both beaches. I talked to afew guests who were pretty excited with Paradise Lost. The excitementstarts at 550 THB.

Seven Seas Resort -4 stars, pool, luxury. The rooms are nice and clean and the bathrooms areabsolutely brilliant. To admire the sea you must book – you guessed itright - a "deluxe seaview room" which will cost your card 5,000 thb.

How to get on Koh Kradan?

You can embark on one of the over-populatedsmall ships leaving Pakmeng and taking a one-day tour of the islands (Koh Ngai,Koh Muk and Koh Kradan). Or you can just hire a long tail boat. I canrecommend Chai, a boatman, tourist guide and policeman at the same time. Hespeaks English. Call him when you get to Pakmeng: 081 747 28 15.

Yong Star Cape

2011-09-01T18:35:00.004+07:00

Day: 22
Mileage: 1,850 km
Location: Laem Yong Star, Trang Province

I discovered the one hundred percentenvironmentally friendly way to freeze in Thailand while everything else aroundis melting hot. The method doesn’t use freon, nor liquid nitrogen, not evensome high technology. Let me tell you about it.

First, you must put on some very thin pieces of clothes andthen you must get on the saleng (motorbike). You head to Yong Star Cape, 70kilometers away from your base. If you are lucky, right when you pass throughthe mountains, God helps you and the rain starts to fall. You’re soaking wet inless than three minutes. The temperature is easilyadjusted via the throttle lever. Faster means cooler. Once you getto 60km/h reminiscences of the day you were born begin to march in front ofyour eyes: it is just as cold and you are just as naked. There you have it,that’s the method. Too bad I missed the Prentice Hall in Geneva.

Rain in Thailand looks as if it’s God’s treat. He doesn't care about the money, he just shares from the bottom of his almighty heart withall his children. The children in return receive from the bottom of theirhumble hearts – whenever rain pours down on them they start laughing with joyand go on riding their motorbikes with water running all over their bodies.Something like the Songkran, though us down here cannot return the favour byhumbly splashing a bucket of water on Him all the way up in heaven.

The Yong Star Cape is sweet ascandy, nothing to do with the majestic and solitary desolation at Than Yong Poor Thalumpuk. Yong Star is small and cheerful, decorated with strange rocks,colorful flowers and hot Tom Yam Kung aroma. It’s mere appearance made me instantly warm.

How to get there: driving on Satun-Trandhighway, you turn left towards Palian and follow the sign for Yong Star cape.

Koh Sukorn. The island of watermelons.

2011-08-16T18:57:00.001+07:00

Day: 21

Mileage: 1650 km

Location: Koh Sukorn, Trang Province

What do you think about when you hear the words "tropical island"? Exactly: white sand, palm trees, a few bungalows on the beach, bars, reggae music or even better, deserted place, Robinson Crusoe style of life. I used to imagine all these until the moment I stepped on Sukorn island. This one was about to teach me there are also normal islands.

Ignore the Andaman Sea surrounding the island and you get the same feeling as you would be visiting the countryside. No resorts, no restaurants, tour operators or taxi cabs. Well, there are two or three so-called resorts but, trust me, you don’t want to spend your holiday in any of them. The only thing Sukorn is known for is the peak season for the watermelons – March and April.

Precisely because they're extremely tasty and famous for that fact, you can find the Sukorn watermelons being sold all over the Trang province coastline. What’s the point, though, to buy “imported” melons when you can go directly to the source?

I arrived in Sukorn one late afternoon, on a boat sailing from the small port called Taseh. The way here was in fact a 250 thb shower. Disembarking I took a deep breath trying to have a sniff of the legendary watermelon scent. My wild imagination pictured this place as being the Las Vegas Sukorn with shining pyramids of cold watermelons resting in the sun. A neverending festival dedicated to the green on the outside and red on the inside fruit. An orgy of watermelons.

I started walking under the stifling heat, trying to sight a pub, restaurant, an eatery maybe which served the local specialty. Nothing. Weirdest things of all was that none seemed to understand the word “watermelon”. Words and mimics weren’t enough to explain what I was searching for so I finally drew a watermelon on a piece of paper and showed it to an itinerant seller. “Aaaa, daeng-moh! Don’t hep.” She pointed another seller’s stall “maybe hep”.

She had. One. One watermelon. A small daeng-moh. I placed the order. She sliced it and served it to me on a chess table, near the stand. It was hot as a pie, but nothing mattered after a full day on the road. The taste - good, indeed. Juicy and sweet, though I felt a touch of spice. It must have been grown on a chilli plantation.

Romanian watermelons are definitely tastier than those in Thailand. But if the Romanian ones must be first tested (cut a cap, for example), here you can pick any because they are all good. No need for that cap test. They are all perfectly ripped. Maybe it’s just me but out of the (probably) one hundred watermelons I bought since I lived in Thailand, none ever broke my heart with dissapointment.

While I was munching the only watermelon on the watermelons island I suddenly found the explanation for the lack of the famous fruit. Well, if everyone here grows watermelons what’s the point in selling them on the island? If they all have it, who’s gonna buy it? Me?

I returned to the pier, I took a boat and headed towards Taseh still holding a sweet-spicy taste in my mouth. Not only from the watermelon but also from the whole day I had spent running around to find it. Sukorn island guessed what I would be writing about it and made a last attempt to win my favour. Halfway from the island to the main land the boatman’s face suddenly lightened with a huge smile: “You, look!”

A few meters away from the boat a team of dolphins had started their evening show, making funny tricks as per the joy of all fishermen in search of sea food and that of a farang in search of a land fruit. Thank you.

Note: the Thai name of the island has two transliterations: Sukorn and Sukon.

Rawai and Toong Sa Boh. The Dream Beach.

2011-08-03T14:15:00.002+07:00

Day 20
Mileage: 1500
Location: Rawai Beach, Satun province

The first two weeks of my trip I followed a route with clear touchdown points and dates. Once I reached Koh Lipe I realized I was an idiot. The purpose of this motorbike tour was to discover new places and to move into the beauty and the mystery. Not to mark destinations which others have more or less superficially ticked before me and others before them. I decided to give up the initial route and savor what Thailand has to show me.

A second decision I took was to forfeit the Northern segment of the tour. It would have been impossible to reach Chiang Rai until the Songkran if I wanted to truly experience the Southern part of the country. Besides, to drive around proved to be more difficult than inital estimations. I was often stopping for smoking, drinking water, refuelling. Plus the longer stops for photo shooting, inspecting accommodation and so on.

In the the twentieth day, early morning, it was time to leave Koh Lipe. I picked up Unirea from the parking lot and headed towards Trang. No plan, no strings attached. Halfway to my destination I noticed a sign pointing to the left: Rawai Beach. The name didn’t ring any bells so I obviously followed the pointed road. Almost ten kilometers long, it went through the forest, passed several bridges and culverts until it finally reached the seashore. I stopped. I was in shock. I knew this beach! I had dreamt about it one month before the trip! I had dreamt even the aproximate location on the map – somewhere in between Satun and Trang. All things fit. This was indeed the beach in my dream.

You either adore or hate Rawai Beach at a first glance. The water is so shallow to very far offshore. No chance for swimming. Instead you can walk for miles into the sea. They say if you are swift of foot you can reach Koh Petra before the tide rises.

The sand, although fine-grained, is a bit oozy due to the river flowing into the sea on the Northern end of the beach. On the other hand Rawai is a treasure for those into beach-combing. It really left me with the feeling that the Andaman Sea is still alive – snails and clams were swarming like nowhere else. Plus battalions of crabs made the sand look as if it was moving by itself for meters.

Apart from a small local restaurant and three wretched bungalows (where I spend the first night) there is no other facility on Rawai Beach. The chances are high not to see any humans on the five kilometers long beach for a whole day.

Main strengths of Haad Rawai are the sand (black here, reddish or golden there), the wilderness and the perspective on Koh Petra Marine Park which lays a few miles offshore. You feel like shouting of so much beauty.

Rawai continues on the other side of the river towards Ban Toong Sa Boh. Five more kilometers of tranquility and beauty. Here you can also find the one decent accommodation in the area. Concealed by Casuarina trees and overrun by flowers and birds, Lalita Homestay Resort pleasantly contrasts with the cruel beauty of the beach. It belongs to a local family who also operates it. The granddaughter is in charge of the reception and the food is deliciously prepared by an aunt. The manager is the owner’s daughter and her name is, you guessed it righ, Lalita. Her English is perfect.

Rooms are tastefully decorated with a playful good taste and are sparkling clean. There’s also a small swimming pool facing the beach – very useful and enjoyable given the sea is a bit too shallow. Prices start at 800 thb per room per night. The restaurant is very affordable.

Almost forgot to tell you about Koh Hingham!

2011-08-02T13:02:00.000+07:00

Ko Hingham is a small uninhabited island which no one would have ever bothered to visit unless the Gods adorned it with precious stones. Precious, indeed, because Gods – precisely the God of Turatao – also launched a curse at any future visitor who would have dared to take even a pebble off the island. Beware, you cannot mess with the Gods!

Even though you cannot take the stones home, you can play with them within the boundaries of the island for as long as your inner child wishes to do so. Thai people, for example, use them to build miniaturized cheddis and kneeling in front of them, they lay their most ardent wishes and prayers. Less mystical white people write short messages in black and white as you can see in the photo above.

How to get there: find a old man on Koh Lipe and bargain as skillfully as possible for a long tail boat trip. You should pay 600-700 thb. Ten persons fit comfortably. The journey to Hingham island takes around 20 minutes.

Satun: Than Yong Po Cape

2011-08-02T11:56:00.002+07:00

Considering the largely accepted definition of a touristic destination, this one doesn’t fit at all. Good accommodation, seafood and water sports are not attractions to be expected in Than Yong Po. Instead one can admire beautiful sunsets over the Tarutao National Park and millions of rocks encrusted with precious shells. A magical silence reigns the place. Old trees, birds and fish with legs accompany it with every step.

Hot to get to Than Yong Po: drive North from Satun and turn left 10 kilometers before Chebilang. Watch out as you might miss the small sign behind the tree. You go ahead for 5 or 6 kilometers, turn right at the end of the road and start walking on the coast. Beware of too much beauty intake as it may become addictive.

Fill up the gas tank once you leave Satun as there is no other petrol station on the way.

Thunderstorms overs Malaysia.

Beautiful islands in Thailand: Koh Lipe

2011-05-10T19:36:00.007+07:00

Day: 15-18
Location: Ko Lipe
Mileage: 1300 (plus one hundred on the sea)

I had planned to stay two days, I spent four instead and finally only a gigantic effort dragged me off the island. There were worst cases, though. Some arrived for a week and stayed six months or six years. The island seems to be a magnet buried in white sand.

Koh Lipe ("Paper island" in the Chao Lay dialect) is lying in the sun on Thailand’s western coast, in the Andaman Sea. It's dubbed the "Maldives of Thailand". Which – for anyone around the globe - means sub-zero cool.

If you consider the visual aspect, the island deserves its nickname. Looks as if it was created for movies and postcards. In other words, perfect: soft white sand, palm trees, coral reefs, turquoise water and a bohemian relaxed and sensual atmosphere. Koh Lipe has three beaches:

Pattaya (no relation to the resort on the continent, as I previously explained) is the main beach where most of the resorts are located and the small scale action of the island happens. The ferries pull ashore here and you can bargain for a long-tail boat trip. The beach is approximately one kilometer long, overlooking the South. Pattaya means "South-East wind."

Sunrise Beach. As its name implies, it overlooks the East and offers a superb view on the neighboring island Koh Adang. It is shorter than Pattaya but more beautiful according to my taste. There is a Chao Lay (sea gipsies) village on the northern end of the beach. Wonderful people, go visit them.

Sunset Beach is the smallest of the three. Here you’ll only find three resorts and two bars.

There are no roads or cars on Koh Lipe. The access from one beach to another is made either on foot or by boat.

Koh Lipe consumer audience consists of young men and women of North-Western European origin - the island is becoming more popular among Scandinavians - who spend time chilling, drinking beer on the beach or snorkeling. Snorkeling is otherwise the main activity you can commit to in case you had enough sunbathing. Both resorts and independent operators offer day trips to the reefs around the island. I didn’t go but everyone was praising the experience. You can also rent a kayak and explore the large rocks popping up here and there.

The only not so cool thing about Koh Lipe is the pricing. Too much for too little. The cheapest bungalow is 500 thb per night, looks a little better than a hermit's cell, and is usually fully booked. To find something decent you have to take out of your pocket at least 1000 thb per night. And this price does not include hot water. Luckly the cold water is 60 degrees because it stays in the sun the whole day.

My recommendations:

Economic: Paradise Cottage Resort (1000 thb per room per night), the third resort as you look from left to right of Pattaya beach. The owner is Chao Lay, he speaks English and Malay. The resort has also a small restaurant.

Mid-range: Blue Tribes Garden Beach Resort (1600 thb). The owner, a friendly young Italian anthropologist, dreams about traveling to Romania.

Hi-end: Sita Beach Resort (5400 thb) near Paradise Cottage, has a swimming pool, AC, gourmet restaurant and all the necessary luxury.

When to go: November to April, during the dry season. The monsoon starts in May - the so-called "green season" during which they say weather is not that bad. It's worth trying as you’ll get better prices and less crowded beaches.
How to get there: by the slow ferry or the fast boat leaving from Thammalang Pier or Pakbara Pier in Satun. The Thammalang boats don’t operate during the munsoon. A return ticket is 600-800 thb. You’ll pay 50 baht extra for the transfer from the anchor point to the beach.

Cities in Thailand: Satun

2011-05-09T22:00:00.006+07:00

Open your mouth as you would say "A" and pronounce an "U" instead. Sătooon. This is the name of the strangest little Thai city I ever visited. I am tempted to call it "mysterious", but I won’t let my ignorance label it.

The first odd thing about Satun is the definition the locals give to the word ”behind”. Rose Inn, where TAT booked me a room, had no address anywhere on the internet. All references placed it "behind the City Hall”. After an one hour search all over the town I stopped at a cafe to ask for directions.

"You go behind, to the main road, you turn right behind the hospital, THEN you go behind the police left, THEN you get to the City Hall. Rose Inn is behind. "

According to the Satunese logics, Craiova (a city in Romania) is also “behind the City Hall” only 8,000 km further. Following my instinct more than the directions I got, I found the inn but not the City Hall. I kept searching it for two days out of ambition and there was no sign of it. I am telling you, there is no City Hall in Satun. There is only the “behind the City hall”.

Rose Inn, 500 thb per night

Mention: Rose Inn is a lovely bungalow resort on the outskirts. 500 thb will get you a large box in a clean and quiet area, 50 meters from the river and the magnificently carved limestone cliffs. Hot water, en suite bathroom, spacious bed, minibar. Internet also, but you have to pay extra.

There are three tourist attractions in Satun. The House of the Spirits, the old buildings on Wanicha Road and the local museum. The trick is in finding them. Never mind the signs, they won’t take you anywhere close to where they say. Don’t follow advices from locals either, you’ll end up in the “behind” labyrinth. I managed to find two out of three (most probably the museum is in the same parallel universe as the City Hall). Permission to report.

The House of the Spirits

The House of the Spirits. What do you think about when you hear such a name? About a house with spirits, right? That's exactly the thought that - excuse me - haunted me. I was thinking about the thrills I would get inside and my skin got tingled. Forget about it. Stephen King or Lovecraft wouldn’t write two words on a napkin about this place.

The House of the Spirits

The House of the Spirits is a pavilion surrounded by wired fence, placed in the courtyard of a Buddhist monastery. If you are really weak maybe there’s a chance you will be scared by the shriveled statuettes. A young monk explained to me that it is dedicated to the ancestors who arriving to Satun by ships founded the temple. That's it. A memorial, at best. Nothing spooky.

Wanicha Road

Wanicha Road starts from the main street, turns by Mambang mosque across the street from a sensual massage parlor and melts into the secondary street. Couldn’t be easier, nor more complicated. The old buildings which I came to visit are old, indeed, but not so old as to warrant tourists interest. They seem to be built in the 20th century and never renovated since. Similar to the blocks of flats built by Ceausescu in Bucharest.

Wanicha Road

Don’t get me wrong: Satun has its charm. The most charming thing are the limestone cliffs which are suddenly interrupted by the booming city. Here's a bank, a supermarket and a pub, 50 meters away the guardianship of the jungle, where man has never set foot. If you follow the sign to the House of Spirits (and do wrong believing it will take you where it promises), you'll find a bizarre suburb, huddled at the foot of the high slopes where, so I was told, crazy people come to hike. Charmingly strange.

Besides, who comes to Satun to stay in Satun? The homonyms province takes pride in some of the wildest and most beautiful places in Thailand: Koh Tarutao, Koh Lipe, Koh Adang, numerous caves and waterfalls, Cape Than Yong Po and other crazy ones I will tell you about in the next few days.

Clarification. Satun is served by 3 piers. From the closest to the farthest there are 80 kilometers. As per avoiding my mistake of chaotically commute between them, remember the following rule: the most southern pier, Tammalang, has the best connections to the south (there are daily ferries to the Malaysian island of Langkawi) and the northernmost pier- Pakbakara - is perfect for transfers to the Lipe, Tarutao Lanta and Phi Phi islands.

Pakbakara pier

You won’t find travel agents in the city, but you can easily spot them in the ports. The employees are lively, helpful, speak English and can basically help with anything you might need, from bus tickets to Bangkok to a visa run in Alon Star. If you go on the islands, you will have to leave your saleng in the port. Behind the port, to be precise.

Thai language, an introductory lesson

2011-05-09T13:40:00.005+07:00

As it’s wearily and pleonastic to keep mentioning every time “Haad Rin Beach” or “Ban Kiri Wong village”, I will make a few notes for a better understanding of this blog and of Thailand itself.

Haad (or Had) means “beach”
Ban means “village”
Baan means “house”

A few more:

Ko (or Koh) means “island”, so “Ko Kradan island” is a pleonasm.
Mu Ko means “archipelago”.
Amphoe means „province”, and Amphoe Mueang means “capital of the province”. Don’t laugh, it might come helpful when you are in “Amphoe Songkla” and need to get to “Amphoe Mueang Songkla”, the city where you booked your accommodation.
Tambon – “district”. Each Amphoe is divided into more Tambons.
Ao means “gulf”
Laem – cape Mae Nam – river
Namtok – waterfall
Phu sau Khao – mountain. Khao is used more often.
Tham – cave
Wat – temple. You already knew that, this is only a reminder. We cannot say “I went to Wat Phra Mahathat temple”.

The transliterations from Thai alphabet to the Latin one seem to follow no rule and can be quite confusing sometimes. To give you an example: the village I live in is called Chaloklam, Chalok Lam, Chaloklaam and Chaloklum.

Moreover, you’ll find on the internet similar names which can lead to hundred of kilometers detours if you don’t pay enough attention. Do not confuse, then, Pha Ngan (the island in the Gulf of Thailand) with Phang Nga (the province on the Andaman Sea shore) or Pattaya beach on Koh Lipe with Pattaya city near Bangkok.

Here are some more useful words:

Naam – water
Bia – beer. But it’s better if you just ask directly for the brand: Singh, Leo, Archa, Chang or Heineken.
Nîng – one
Song – two
Sam– three
Lau Uai – wine
Buri – cigarettes
Keptang – check
Phom – me, in case you are a man
Dichan (or Chan) – me, if you are a woman
Khun – you, no matter the sex
Kau – rice (it is generically used for “food”). You will often hear “Ghin Kau?”. It means “Are you hungry?”. Answer “Krap (men) sau Kaa (women)” if you are. If not, shake the head and they will get it.
Kho Thod Krap/Kaa – excuse me

Phi Phi, Phuket sau Pha Ngan are not pronounced Fifi, Fuck It or Fangan, but exactly as they are written, using an exhaled “p”. The NGs should be pronounced like in the word “angle”.

Tonii (accent on ii) – now
Tilan (accent on i) – later
Tinai (accent on the first i) – where?
Tinii (accent on the last i) – here
Uan nii (accent on ii) – today
Ghin nii (accent on ii) – tomorrow
Arroy – tasty/good (related to food)
Arroy mac mac – very, very good/tasty
Array? – what???
Phom Mai Kau Chai Paasa Thai Krap – I don’t understand Thai language (for men)
Dichan Mai Kau Chai Paasa Thai Kaa – I don’t understand Thai language (for women)
Nitnoy (accent on it) – little
Cha-cha – slowly, easy, no rush. It is pronounced exactly like the name of the latino dance
Sabai di mai? – everything alright?
Sabai di – everything's fine
Sabai, sabai – everything's fine, fine, please stop speaking Thai because Phom Mai Khau Chai Paasa Thai Krap/Kaa.

The funniest one, though, is when you ask for directions and distances: “Far” is “Klai”, “Close” is “Klai”. You’d better fill up the tank than rely on getting this one right.

A brief note on Hat Yai

2011-05-08T19:06:00.006+07:00

Nobody comes to Hat Yai voluntarily. The farangs transit it during the visa run trip they do on the Malaysian border, 100 km South of the city. The Malaysians, in turn, come here for an Allah-break with drinks and hot chicks. Hat Yai is known as the "Southern Thailand's capital of pleasures."

Nor did I come come to Hat Yai because I was dying to see it but the attempted route happened to include it. Everything I read about Hat Yai has been confirmed. And, on the one hand, after many austere days, I really enjoyed the 20 hours during which: everyone spoke English, I bought two T-shirts and some medium spiced chicken drums, I had complimentary wi-fi in the hotel room and met a few dizzy white men to whom I could talk to.

The hotel - courtesy of TAT - has two sides. One on the right side of the road, with endless floors, friendly and educated receptionists, clean rooms and a kinky maid, and another one on the left side of the street, sharing the building with an “ancient massage” saloon. Ancient massage is a close relative of the most ancient profession in the world. So beware! Or, if you prefer, welcome, guys! Just don’t carry too much money with you, the massage oil is damn expensive.

Otherwise, accommodation, food and shopping for all budgets and tastes. The town is located between some deforested hills and there is not much to see you around. The Gulf of Thailand is 30 kilometers away, the Andaman Sea 80. Keep going!

Koh Yo. The place where I discovered I am a successful man.

2011-05-08T17:43:00.009+07:00

Despite being squashed between two superlatives, this enchanted island manages to mind its own business in the most relaxed manner.

The first superlative: Songkhla Lake, the largest natural lake in Thailand, covering an area of 1,000 square kilometers. Technically speaking, the lake is not really a lake, but a complex of lagoons where the freshwater coming from the mountains mixes with the salty Gulf of Thailand.

Songkhla Lake, the largest natural lake in Thailand

The second superlative: Tinsulanonda bridges built in the '80s by former Prime Minister Prem Tinsulanonda, a native of Songkhla. The two structures, totaling 2.6 kilometers, form the longest bridge across water in Thailand. If it wasn’t for his initiative, I wouldn’t have made it on the island riding Unirea and surely had missed the freedom to move around. Thank you for this.

One of the two Tinsulanonda bridges

Once I put my first wheel on the island, I had the first visual shock: a 30 meters long sleeping Buddha statue (reclining Buddha, as they say) was bathing in the morning sun two steps away from Laemphor Phranom temple. A first warning that the island had much to offer.

Wat Laemphor Phranom

It was terribly hot and after a quarter of an hour photo shooting, I felt dizzy and exhausted. I left the temple in search for some cold water. I found a restaurant on the shore and the curious and amused glances welcomed me once more “look, farang man”. The menu was in Thai, the staff was Thai, so I had water and coffee, unwilling to take any risks that might have risen from ordering food. Swirling around my eyes, I noticed a plate of fruits on the next table. They looked sensational. I asked the waitress to bring me some. The taste was as extraordinary as the look: a juicy combination of apricot and melon. The investigations on the spot revealed the local name of madziku fruit, and some subsequent internet search indicated this is a sapodilla variety found only on Koh Yo. Local pride that is.

The jack-fruit is another local pride of the island. As I left the restaurant, I came across an old lady selling it. I took a photo and she offered me a slice. Whoever said jack-fruit tastes bad should try this one and think again about such assertion.

Frog silk

Moving on. I surrounded the island 10 times and each time I discovered new things in old places. Fishermen returning from the lake honored the local whiskey and the buffalo soup. I was invited to join, but I never eat buffalo soup while driving.

I came across Wat Kok Pew, where they have a school for monks. The kids, all between 10 and 14 years old, were manufacturing firecrackers out of bamboo sticks. I didn’t quite understand the technique, but the cracking stuff was surely loud.

I found accommodation as well. The rooms were rather big, very clean and overlooking the lake. The price was 150 thb per night.

I stopped in the backyard of another temple, Wat Thai Yo and, while taking out my camera, I noticed a stairway leading straight to the sky. At its base, a man who seemed a little disturbed, the lunatic of the village type, was encouraging me to climb the stairs. He grabbed my arm and walked with me a few steps, then returned to his place. I suppose he was waiting for the next disoriented passer-by to force him into climbing up to heaven.

Wat Thai Yo. A dragon was hidden behind the orange cloth.

I remember an old Chinese movie about a Shaolin school. The novices were trained by climbing and descending stairs while carrying two full yokes on their shoulders. I felt I was one of those Shaolin students while climbing the stone stairs up to the hill. Where I was expected by – again like in the movies - a lone chedi, wrapped in silence, mystery and dead leaves. Awesome moment, brilliant revelation.

The Wat Thai Yo chedi

The lake seen from the top of the hillock

I admit I felt slightly guilty for spending a full day on Koh Yo while ignoring so many other destinations I had on the list. Ten laps of the island, an eight hours chaotic spin around the bush an here I was where I first started. Nobody spoke English, I was unable to document anything for adding up some value to the poor information I had found on the internet. Basically, I was wasting time – the fact was also confirmed by the critical attitude of a group of goats I met.

"Wastin' time, young man!"

I searched for a flat terrain to park my motorbike and have a cigarette, while meditating on my nothingness. I stopped next to a fisherman's hut not much wider than the mattress it probably had inside. The smallest hut of all, with a jetty and a white and green boat. Is this why I troubled myself to come all the way? I went deeper into my melancholic state of mind. And then, on the wall facing the street I noticed an inscription. I approached, trying to discern the hidden message written in flaking paint.

And, my friends, on the wooden wall of the old fishing hut on the island of Koh Yo, on Songkla Lake which is connected to the mainland by the two Tinsulanonda bridges, someone had left this message written in English:

"Success is the journey, not the destination."

Songkhla: the city of a thousand tales

2011-05-08T13:21:00.004+07:00

I'm not too crazy about cities, but here I would gladly return anytime. Songkhla is a mystery which I find difficult to understand and explain.

The mystery comes from the city name. Some sources say "Songkhla" derives from the two islands guarding the harbor. A few sailors coming from the South saw them and thought they looked like two lions, hence the name: Song Khla.

Other authors argue it is about lions, not two though, but one personified by one of the beautiful hillocks in the city which looks similar to the king of all animals. The sailors made this one up also. Land seen from the sea comprises all the fantasies of he who sees it.

(The harbour)

All in one, locals do not care very much about this matter. They look at it from a very pragmatic, Chinese perspective: a mouse, a cat and a dog planned to steal a merchant's gem. They ran away from the ship but were cursed to turn into stone. That's how the two offshore islands appeared - Koh No (mouse) and Koh Meaw (cat).

(Samila Beach)

I don't know the truth and I don't intend to find it out. If I do, I would probably spend the next few years in this place. The city doesn't have a center, but several. One is overlooking the temple, another the neighboring city of Hat Yai. There is also one where you meet the royal dynasties of now and then. Songkhla Lake, the largest natural lake in Thailand, and its eternal tango dance with the sea creates another center. Then you have the old center smelling like centuries of fishing and trade. And the new one where you find a KFC, a shopping mall and the young generation of locals.

(The old town)

There are two things I recommend you to do when you arrive in Sogkhla. Go for a walk on Samila Beach in the morning to see its silky, endless wilderness. At sunset wander through the old city. There are only three streets spread along the coast but offering so much that it makes you feel as you would take a walk through a fairy tale book.

(The old town)

Beautiful journeys in Thailand: Nakhon Si Thammarat to Songkla

2011-05-05T14:28:00.006+07:00

Ziua 11

Location: on the road
Mileage: 1050

I had to leave the peninsula right after Songkla to cross the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea. I felt this was a farewell journey so I chose to drive on a secondary road, along the sea shore instead of the highway between Nakhon and Sonhkla.

The first 50 kilometers were the most beautiful. The sea dressed up for the occasion in deep blue clothes. The waves were heading towards the shore in perfect sized jumps, trying to impress me and make me stop to salute them back. Along the coast, small fishing villages and shrimp farms, tiny wooden cottages and white birds commuting between the sea and the land. The wind was blowing carrying Muslim muezzin voices, turbans and shawls, shy smiles and respectful greetings.

All this had such a cinematic look that I decided to become part of it for real. I did something which I had never done before, since it seemed unseemly and foolhardy. I took off my shirt and helmet, put on the headphones and started rocking on the road. Yeah, I was Hell's Angel!

After an hour of rock'n'roll, I felt like I needed to enjoy the tranquility of the place. I randomly selected a village, parked Unirea under a palm tree and went to the beach leaving the luggage carelessly unattended. The women were working on the shadowed flowery porches . The men were smoking cigarettes on the beach while the children played in the sea. The beach seemed the heart of the village, the quiet place where the daily stories, thoughts and future plans meet and get stirred at sunset time. I took a deep breathe and returned to Unirea. Needless to say nothing was missing.

For the last 30 kilometers I returned on the highway. More cars, but not less beauty. Everywhere I looked there were temples, gardens and many, many yellow, red and cyclamen flowers. Highways in Thailand are like botanical gardens spreading over hundreds of kilometers.

Coming directly from the North, I had to take the ferry to cross Songkla Lake to Samila Beach. It was already dark and I was not up to go round the lake. I paid 10 baht and waited half an hour until the old metal platform completed the one mile trip between the shores. The ferry was loaded with cars, people and one million motorbikes.

The last kilometer to Samila Beach Resort (where I had booked a room) would have been the most difficult part of this trip if I haven't had met a nice local guy who realizing I was lost kindly offered to guide me to the location.

Altogether I spent five hours on the road. I could have made it in two but then there wouldn't have been any story to tell, would it?

Baan Kiri Wong. True colors.

2011-05-05T13:37:00.009+07:00

Day 10
Location: Ban Kiri Wong National Park Khao Luang
Mileage: 820

Unirea got stuck for the first time in Khao Luang. The mountain roads were so steep and narrow that we stopped on a slope; couldn't climb, nor descent it. Luckily two villagers were passing by on enduro motorcycles and they helped us move forward. What can I say, life is difficult.

Difficult and beautiful. Beautiful and colorful. Villagers from Kiri Wong have plenty of skills. And they like to be independent. They live on the "sufficiency economy" principles promoted by His Majesty the King of Thailand. That means they produce locally everything they need: from chili to chicken. After the floods destroyed the village two years ago, they didn't wait for the foundations or the government to come and help. They re-built everything by themselves.

Having such an independent spirit, I wasn't surprised to hear people at the foot of the mountain manufacture and paint their own clothes using a traditional 100% natural method.

How do they do that? First they buy the cotton cloth. Then they finely chop various pieces of bark, plants or fruits, each holder of another pigment. Yellow is obtained from Khanun (jackfruit). Brown, from the Ku Kuang bark ("deer ears", a shrub growing in the area). Dark brown from Poo Long (none seems to know the English name). And the wonderful orange you see below comes from the the mangostine.

They boil the chops until the water gets the right color. They take the fabric and simmer it in this water, but not before folding it with bamboo pegs so the final result comes out with a floral print. After an hour and a half, they take the fabric out of the water, let it dry in the generous tropical sun and then turn it into shirts, pants, skirts, blouses, bags and hats.

You can buy any of these at the store in the center of the village. For a pair of pants and a cute bag I paid 400 baht (approx. 10 euros). My feeling is it will take some time before the colors on these two pieces fade.

Khao Luang National Park

2011-05-03T22:11:00.005+07:00

Day 9
Location: Parcul Naţional Khao Luang
Mileage: 800

Dear kids, welcome to the Khao Luang National Amusement Park. Please put on your trekking shoes, use some mosquito repellent and grab your cameras. I will give you a tour.

Downstairs we have Kiriwong village known throughout Thailand for the organic farming practiced by the locals. What do I mean? I mean people plant everything they need around the house: fruits, vegetables, spices. All in perfect harmony with the environment. Do you see the colorful clothes they wear? They make them in the village by extracting natural dyes from the fruits and the bark. No, not because they are poor, but because this is the tradition in this area.

Before moving on, please take a seat and enjoy the local specialties: Nam Prik, a delicious shrimp paste which you won't find anywhere else. Or chompoo, a sweet and juicy fruit. It tastes like a pear and melon combination. Finally, there's a glass of ... no, it's not honey, it's mangostine wine. It's just as sticky and fragrant as honey, but the buzzing you'll hear won't come from the bees.

On the first floor we have 10 waterfalls. Smaller, older, one, two, three or seven levels, closer or farther away. No wonder there are so many, given that the park is full of rivers, creeks and springs. You want one within easy reach? Here: Namtok May Pak. You can refresh yourselves with a bath.

On the 2nd floor we have the flora. Look at those giant ferns, over 20 meters high. They are part of the world's oldest species of ferns: Cyathea podophylla. They remind you of Jurassic Park? You are close: these ferns date back since the Triassic. Take a close look, they are unique in the world.

How about this flower, named Achan Singto Tem (Bulbophyllum smitinandi). It is one of the newly discovered orchids in the world. That big flower over a meter in length, is also an orchid which is called Sai Ueang Soete (Coelogyne rochussenii). Our park hosts many other unique plants on Earth, and an impressive collection of rhododendrons and begonias.

The third floor is dedicated to the wildlife. There are nightingales, woodpeckers and owls, eagles and pheasants. In total, over 200 species. But we're most proud of our group of hornbills, which you can spot right now acting like two lovebirds up in the sky.

Sorry, what was the question? Do we have mammals? Of course, dear children. We have leopards, tapirs, porcupines, deer, macaque monkeys, languid, badgers and supposedly some tigers, but I haven't had the misfortune to meet with them personally.

On the fourth floor (and the last) we have Khao Luang mountain summit itself which, rising to 1835 meters, is the highest in Southern Thailand. Relax for a few minutes watching the beauty of the surrounding mountains and the untouched rain forest.

And now let's return to the village, where our hosts expect us. For only 500 baht per day, we sleep and we eat three meals in one of villagers home. They don't speak English, but they are good people. You don't have to ask for anything, they already know what you need.

Thank you for visiting. Please come again!

Precision

2011-05-03T21:57:00.004+07:00

I stop the motorbike and ask the guy how to get somewhere. He says something like:

- Go straight 12.5 km, turn left, go 4 km. Turn right, walk 800 meters.

I think, come on, this can't be. What, he used the measuring tape? I check the mileage. It can be. It is as precise as possible.

- And how long does it take?

He looked at my saleng, looked at me. He answered smiling: 35 minutes.

I left at 12, arrived at 12.38, but I stopped to smoke a cigarette.

I think the Thais have built-in GPS.

Talumphuk Cape. Far beyond the map.

2011-05-03T21:42:00.004+07:00

Day 8
Location: Talumphuk Cape, Nakhon Si Thammarat province
Mileage: 710

While visiting Pak Phanang I met Sean, a 34 years old Scot. He was riding the bycicle. I thought “gee, another one just as crazy as myself”. I stopped and asked if he would care for some water.

Sean teaches English at Pak Phanang school, being the only farang in the city. Taking advantage of the fact that I could finally communicate with a local resident, I asked him about Talumphuk Cape located in the northernmost point of the peninsula.
- How is the place? Is it nice? Is it worth visiting? - You’re not going to believe this but even if I’ve been living here for a year, I never went there. I never had anyone to go with.

The following day, once I dropped my luggage at the hotel I had found thanks to Sean’s kindly help, we left together for Cape Talumphuk. Mangrove forests spread on the left-hand side of the road. Shrimp farms and a foaming sea on the right. A strong wind had been blowing during the last days. The road was completely deserted, except for the snakes crossing it every other kilometer, colorfully waving like an optical illusion.

We arrived at the village after 25 kilometers. We were by all means welcomed by curious faces. “Hello, mister” was shouted from every courtyard. We took the sandy road through an exceptional Lord of the Rings forest and we drove 5 kilometers more. Unirea ran smoothly.

To reach the beach, we had to cross by foot the two channels linking the sea to the mangrove forest. The salty, warm water must have been the same as the primordial soup. It was about one meter deep, only at the beginning at the flux. We had to be fast otherwise we would have remained prisoners on the muddy sands for the next 12 hours. Mosquitoes couldn’t care less about the wind. They were pinching every part of our bodies, Sean’s most of all.

I could try to describe Cape Talumphuk. I could tell you about the wild silence. Or the mad waves which breaking onto the shore instantly calmed down, sucked into the silky sand. There were also the white birds marking playgrounds on the sky. And the old fishing nets brought towards the shore from who knows how far and deep waters. Or I could find a way to make you imagine the clouds, the sun and this beautiful sunset which resembled an angel’s painting.

There is, though, no point in trying as I took all these photos. Take a look. No envy or sorrow, Cape Talumphuk will as beautiful when you go see it.

Beautiful towns in Thailand: Pak Phanang.

2011-05-03T21:36:00.005+07:00

Day 7
Location: Pak Phanang
Mileage: 640

I was instantly drawn to it when I first noticed it on the map. A city which is neither small, nor big, split in two by the river just before this one flows into the sea. I went to check if the geographical data is enough to make Pak Phanang worthy of paying a visit.

According to my old bad (or good?) habit, I avoided the highway and followed instead the maze of small and bumpy rural roads, which divided every kilometer into other smaller and bumpier rural roads. Luckily it was late afternoon, the sunset showed me West, which I knew I had to keep behind me.

It was like the city was trying to make up for my efforts and it revealed its first beauty right at the entrance. I had stopped to quench my thirst with some cold water near the “Pak Phanang” sign. As I raised my eyes I saw this beautiful temple quietly resting near the creek. If I had followed the highway, I would have missed it for sure. I reached closer to take some photos. A few dogs appeared out of nowhere, snarling at me. They were obviously trying to tell me I should move on. And so I did.

Pak Phanang is a place where I would stay forever. The sunset painted the river and the white houses on its shores in golden honey-like shadows. Everywhere I looked I saw colorful dressed people, colorful shops, colorful motorbikes and lights and smells. The city was welcoming me with surprised smiles. The farangs almost never come to visit. I met one who is actually living here and working as a teacher. He is the only white person in Pak Phanang.

I returned to Nakhon, I checked-out and I moved to the golden city for the night. I was curious to see the colors of the sunrise also. The place I slept in is called Ban Chai Klong and I can say two things about it: it has the most beautiful terrace, one meter away from the river and it is the cleanest hotel I ever stayed in.

How to get to there: from Nakhon Si Thammarat, follow the sign to Pak Phanang, go about 30 kilometers and cross the bridge to Pak Phanang East. Turn left, then right and enter the town. Both sides are beautiful, but I would say the Eastern one has more charm.

Must see: 30 km from Pak Phanang you will find the sensational Talumphuk Cape, which I will tell you about in a future post.

Suchat Sapsin, the man who brings the shadows into the light

2011-05-03T21:29:00.006+07:00

Day 6
Location: Nakhon Si Thammarat, Suchat Sapsin Shadowplay house
Mileage: 520

The Prince and his two friends - Yordtong and Seegeaw – go to a monk’s school. In less than a week, they decide they learned enough and they would like to leave. The monk doesn’t allow them to do so. The Prince pulls out a gun, threatens the old man and so they get away heading back home. Along the way, the Prince falls in love with a giant’s daughter and stays with her. His friends continue the journey through the forest. They find a motorbike and even if they don’t know to what purpose the object serves to they consider carrying with them. Once Yordtong is thrown down from the saddle by a restive horse, the two friends decide to continue the journey by plane. But oh! A technical problem occurs during the flight. Our heroes parachute themselves and arrive home unharmed.

This is the 15 minutes story Suchat Sapsin stages daily at his home on a quiet street on the outskirts of Nakhon. The show includes characters of a classical nang yai performance: a prince, a monk and the jokers, on which the artist grafted modern elements: motorbikes, guns, Thai Airways planes and an “I love you” highlighted every now and then. That is only to make the show appealing to a diverse audience.

They stage the story for a minimum of two persons. By the time I got there, none had shown up and I had to pay double the fee: 100 thb (2 euro). The old puppeteer slowly stood up from under the arbor where he was resting, went up on the stage followed by his wife – who assists him every time – and the show started.

Suchat Sapsin is 74 years old and has been a nang yai maestro for half a century. He is well known throughout Thailand, being named an Honored Artist. His house is a temple dedicated to this thousand years old art – having a stage, a workshop and a small museum, it is truly one of the most important centers for the promotion and preservation of the shadow play tradition in Thailand.

"People no longer throng to see shadow play shows. They have the television nowadays.” reveals Senee, Suchat Sapsin’s daughter-in-law. "We are trying, though, to preserve the tradition. Me, my husband and my daughter work here building puppets and settings for the shows and explaining to our guests the origins and beauty of this ancient art.”

There are hundreds of puppets and setting pieces in the workshop. Visitors can admire or buy them. A prince, a princess or a joker similar to the ones in the photos is sold for 800 thb (approx. 17 euro). It takes one month to build a complete set of decor which is sold for 25,000 thb (500 euro). Is it a fair deal?

"We are neither poor, nor rich. We work hard. There are many easier ways to make money. We chose this one because we feel it is our duty and honour to continue what Suchat Sapsin started. His work is precious and we must take care of it. "

An old farang and a swarthy Thai lady come into the shop holding hands. Senee calls her father-in-law “Father, we have two people”. The old man comes out from under the arbor where he was dozing. He lights up a cigarette and goes up on the stage followed by his wife. Senee takes the hundred baht fee from the couple, the light is turned on and the Prince, Seegeaw and Yordtong begin their journey one more time.

Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan and other impossible-to-pronounce names

2011-05-03T20:54:00.003+07:00

The name of the city is Nakhon Si Thammarat. Believers from all over Asia gather for the big Buddhist festival organized here every year. The celebration bears the name Khuen Hae Pha That; it starts on the Full Moon night of February and lasts for a week. Next year it will begin on the 10th.

The venue: Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, a 16 centuries old temple, built during the Srivijaya empire. One of Buddha’s teeth was brought here from Sri Lanka and it’s been serving as a spiritual foundation ever since.

Don’t get overwhelmed; it is easy to reach. As you drive on Phattanakan Khu Kwang from Surat Thani, turn right on Soi Si Thamassok 1, go further to the traffic light and turn right on Ratcha Damnoen.

If you get lost, ask a passerby: "Ko thod krap… Khun saap mai krap? Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan diu tinai krap?”

Good. No joke now when I say the temple is fabulous. I went to visit four times in three days. Even though it wasn’t on my way, I would detour to pass by it. Every time it was different. Different light, different mood, different wishes released towards hundreds of Buddha images. Even if you have nothing in common with Buddhism, a mystic thrill makes your heart swing in front of all this beauty.

See you on February 10, 2011?

Sichon accommodation

2011-05-03T20:50:00.001+07:00

Sichon area doesn’t offer too many touristic facilities as tourists rarely stop here. Most of those who do are Thai people escaping for the weekend and usually sleeping over at friends and relatives. There are only 5-6 hotels in the big cities and 1-2 in the smaller ones.

I checked Prasarnsook Villa Resort, on Sichon Beach just as you leave the city. The beach is small and nice, offering proper sand and water. Three policemen were drinking coffee at the resort restaurant, a few locals were playing with a ball in the sea. The four empty Singha bottles were witnesses of a night with few people and many words.

Prasarnsook is not the kind of place where you would spend your entire vacation, but offers a good base for the raids you might want to make on the deserted beaches around the city of Sichon.

They offer two types of rooms: cute at 1,200 thb and spooky at 500 thb. If you check the website, do not let yourself seduced by the photos. It's nice, but not quite as nice as they show it. They hired a good photographer.

Faster than the internet

2011-05-03T20:47:00.002+07:00

I've been on the road for 10 days already. The stories only got to Day 4 but that’s because some places offer worst internet connections than others. In other words, I move faster than the internet, I reached the speed of light. Another law of phisics is being challenged.

Although there are less than 200 kilometers from Koh Pha Ngan to the place I am now, the mileage shows 800. The way here was filled with temptations, many of the interesting places I checked several times in search for the best light to take the beautiful photos you see along the articles.

As I move further to the South, the English language seems to refuge from my path of invasion. Even the five stars resorts have a maximum of two persons able to speak a little bit of Frank Lampard’s language.

Very few farang people, also, I think I saw no more than 10 pale faces in recent days. Out of which 3 I know for a fact are English teachers at some of the local schools.

The first thing I do once I reach a place on the route is to drive around the secondary roads and let things happen. That is how I discovered the temple above three days ago.

Beaches in Thailand: Sao Pao beach.

2011-05-03T20:45:00.003+07:00

Day 4
Location: Sichon
Mileage: 400

I met Mr. Long Porn three weeks ago through a mutual friend. Among other subjects, we came to talk about my tour around Thailand. When he heard I would pass by Sichon, he immediately informed me he lives in the city and there was no way I could sleep in a hotel. I would have to be his guest.

As an invitation ought not to be refused - especially in this part of the world - I called him as soon as I entered the city. I was pretty sure he would not remember me but still insisted on following the protocol.

Mr. Long is a senior official in Porn Nakhon Si Thammarat province. He wears an uniform decorated with many braids, a huge office and 40 employees. He's powerful and well connected. He is a man with many qualities and only one flaw: he doesn’t speak English.

Imagine, then, that you get to a foreign city at noon, the sun melts your helmet on the skull, the hostile and noisy mopeds swarm around your saleng. Under these vicious circumstances, imagine you have to talk to a man who does not understand nor speak any word in any language familiar to you. Nor you are able to speak any dialect he can understand. You have to explain to him that you arrived, what your current location is exactly and he has to tell you where to go, which way to take and what time to get to the meeting place.

After 10 phone conversations during which neither of us understood anything, the magic formula popped up in my head: the 7 Eleven store. I said, 7 Eleven, he replied 7 Eleven. Like a magic charm it worked. Ten minutes later we were shaking hands in front of the store, me feeling ridiculously guilty I spent an hour of this man’s precious time simply because I can’t speak Thai.
Sichon is a small town with a large prefecture. It’s the only thing I noticed about it. In contrast, the surrounding beaches are beautiful. Fine golden sand as in Khanom, but are completely deserted. There are no tourist facilities, only small fishing huts. None would have bothered me if I just mounted my tent in a palm tree shaded area and lived into the wild for a few days. I went to the Sao Pao beach (20 minutes south of the city) and for two hours and many miles, I saw one man: the old man in the picture above, sieving the sand as gold searchers used to do.

I slept in Mr. Long Porn’s house (no other way, obviously), not before attending the party organized in honor of the journalist from Romania – Hagi-Hagi. We had pork barbeque for dinner washed it with lots of Singha beers and we sang “Yellow River” in karaoke.

Secret places in Thailand: Khao Plai Dam

2011-05-03T20:37:00.004+07:00

Day 4
Location: Sichon
Mileage: 360

Khau Plai Dam is almost unknown to farang people. Residents of Sao Pao and Sichon love this place and come here in the afternoon to swim or simply to enjoy the quiet nature and beautiful landscape. I got there at rush hour. 300-400 people have been scattered along the 2 miles beach.

Technically, Khau Plai Dam is a raging mountain pouring down into the Gulf of Thailand, pointing spectacular cliffs and lush vegetation towards the beach. The forest is full of deer and birds.

The beach itself is wonderfull with a beautiful mixture of yellow, gray and black sand. The water is deep enough for those keen on swimming. A few fishermen families live at the Southern end of the beach. Take some minutes to watch them returning home at sunset, driving in full speed, perpendicular to the shore and boats climb up on the sand as far as the home door. Something like this:

How to get there: from Sichon, take the road to Sai Tambon Thung. Distance: 12 km.

The one with the pink dolphins

2011-05-03T20:34:00.003+07:00

Photo by Nong Ta

It wasn’t a joke. Pink dolphins exist and can be found in two places: Fiji and Thailand.

A group of 40 mammals live around Khanom beach area, patrolling from north to south all day long. If you are lucky you can see them just by looking out the window of your bungalow very early in the morning or before sunset.

I tried to spot them two times, gazing along the blue waters for three hours each time. They never showed up. Probably they found food in other areas during those days. You might be luckier.

Note: I am talking about sea pink dolphins, not the fresh water ones living on the Amazon.

Khanom accommodation

2011-05-03T20:14:00.008+07:00

Khanom is still a quiet destination. Along the 7km beach I counted 15, up 20 places where you can sleep, if you do not take into account the huts saying "Room For Rent, 24h”. In other words, not much of a choice. What’s nice is kind of expensive, what's cheap is pretty creepy. Here are some options:

Upper segment: Racha Kiri Resort & Spa, 4 stars

If this were in Romania, it would get seven stars and be the Mecca of daddy’s boy and girls . For Thai standards, though, Racha Kiri Resort is just like any other, with sumptuous rooms, pool, spa, gardens, waterfalls and statues. It doesn’t have its own beach (it’s located up on a hill) but offers free shuttle transfer to Nai Plao. The cheapest room is 3,500 thb per night, but they offer packages such as 3D/2N at 7,600-8, thb per person. This includes private villa accommodation, seafood barbeque dinner, a tour and breakfast.
Racha Kiri also offers yoga and detoxification programs. Altogether, it's a decent resort, very quiet, tastefully furnished, I dare say it’s worth the money. More info on Racha Kiri website.

Upper segment: Khanom Hill Resort

It's a nice place up on a hill between Khanom and Nai Plao. Each cottage is uniquely designed by some German architects. A total of 28 rooms, some close to the beach, others up in the jungle. A road stands between them, which is not the prettiest thing.

The owner is Thai. He is kind and a good English speaker. The resort became part of the TUI circuit and, at the time I visited it had 95% occupancy. I only found two available rooms for the photo shoot.

I talked to one of the guest who told me he liked the Hill Resort so much that he returns every year since 2005 to spend a week there. He was German, around 55 years old. He is the typical guest, in case you ever come by. Room prices are between 2,800 and 3,500 thb. Breakfast included. Check the website also.

Medium segment

There are not too many options. Most of the medium segment accommodation is for domestic tourists. So do not expect English, beach bars, great music, internet connection or courtesy. Sleep, eat, sit by the pool, pay and get back home. Prices are inflated for the quality they offer. I won’t go into much detail. You can find a room or a bungalow at Supa Royal Beach Hotel or Alongkot Resort. Nothing special except high chances of loud Thai karaoke.

Economy: Phu Phat Resort

There are some good looking bungalows 10 meters away from the deserted beach. Prices are between 5 and 600 thb per night. The owners are Thai and don't speak English, so I will not give you the phone number. If you want to make a reservation send Charlie from CC Charlie's Beach Bar an e-mail. He will gladly help as he is the neighbor and friend of the owners. If you choose to stay here you can listen to some Romanian music at Charlie’s.

Note: all photos are taken with my own eyes.

Beaches in Thailand: Kahnom Beach. Only pink dolphins missing.

2011-05-03T20:09:00.004+07:00

Day 3
Location: Khanom Beach
Mileage: 210

I am reporting live from CC Beach Bar because the internet in my room is not working. Charles, the owner, walks around:

"Say we have the most beautiful sunrises. And the moon, yeah, the most beautiful moon! Oh, and here the most spectacular storms happen. You say all that, ok?"

Charles loves Khanom Beach. And he loves it for some time now. He's been living here for five years, has a beautiful wife, a house with four bedrooms and the coolest bar on the beach. True, not many to compete with.

Khanom is turning into a vicious circle and I am not sure what stirred it. There are few tourists because there is little to be done. And there is little to do, because there are few tourists. During the evening you can not find a place to drink a Blue Lagoon, chill out listening to other countries music and write arrogant statuses on Facebook. The only place is Charles’ bar.

Things will not remain so for long. You can already feel in the air the smell of big investments. Land is getting more expensive by the day as the big names in hosteling have bought some tens of hectares. In less than five years, the pictures you see here will be classified as archive footage, under the label "Khanom Beach once." (I will add this tag to be the first in Google search)

Nor could it be otherwise. Khanom has all the natural ingredients to become a new tourist haven (I admit my teeth set on edge when I use this words). It offers 7 km of deserted beach with fine golden sand. The sea is calm, warm and shallow and the landscape is completed by Samui and Phangan figures. What else could you ask for? Some pink dolphins?

The five miles of water and sand are divided into pieces with different names: Naiplao Beach, Nadan Beach, Nai Preit, Kor Kho and so forth. But that is only for easier orientation. In fact, it's one long beach which I will continue to call Khanom.

Currently, the place enjoys attention only from local tourists who come during the weekends from Surat Thani, Nakhon or Bangkok to enjoy a cold Singha by the pool, a fishing session or a loud karaoke night at the resort I’m staying. I will write a separate post on the accommodation.

Now I am counting the minutes to 11.30 to watch the rising of the moon. I would love to take some photos but lacking inspiration I left the camera in my room, 4 km away from here. If you allow me, I'll be lazy for the first time in the recent days.

How to do monkey business in Thailand

2011-05-03T19:51:00.004+07:00

Day 2
Location: Kadaejae Monkey Training School, Kanjanarit
Mileage: 156

You first buy a baby macaque. It costs between 1,000 and 10,000 thb. Then you take it to Kadaejae Monkey Training School, where Mr. Luesak Papthanawat teaches it to recognize a ripe coconut, to take it down of the tree and to react to various commands. After 3 months of school, you have a working monkey worth between 50,000 and 100,000 thb.

There is a high demand not only from coconut plantations. Luxury resorts hire monkeys to get rid of the coconuts that could fall on tourists’ heads, major risk of injuries and then trials and paid damages. You pay 10,000 for the monkey, 4,000 on training and you got yourself the Monkey Business. Wasn’t Darwin right?

For the greedy kind, Luesak offers a Masters program. Your makak learns the Wai - the Thai greeting (front paws pressed onto each other plus a bow), how to ride a bicycle or to untie complicated knots and so on. Already at this point you have a show monkey worth between 100,000 and 300,000 thb. 6,000 euros for a monkey is not bad.

Luesak currently has six students, aged between 1 and 3 years. The training takes place every day at 6 am. Monkeys have bananas for breakfast, milk for a snack, rice for lunch, mango and bananas for dinner. All inclusive.

I spent one night in Luesak’s house in the countryside. I took a shower with the dish, I had (again) duck and chicken with rice and green curry and a spicy fish soup. We went together on his old saleng to get some beer and we talked. Mostly he talked. Morning roosters woke me up.

How to get to Kadaejae Monkey Training School: from Surat Thani going to Donsak, turn left at km 28, go straight 3 km, turn left again, keep it straight and you get to his courtyard (do not let yourself fooled by the curve on the main road, just keep it straight).

Aroy mac-mac!

2011-05-03T19:47:00.002+07:00

Day 1
Location: Surat Thani
Mileage: 125

In Thai language aroy is tasty and mac-mac is very. The least I could learn. As I was hungry as a horse I stopped at a small family restaurant with cheap and good food. An eatery, as they call it.

- What is this?
- Pork.
- And this?
- Duck.
- I want duck with rice.

(after finishing my meal)

- You like the duck?
- Yaaa. Aroy mac-mac, this duck.

What was the point in explaining the lady how we, the Romanians, call the sounds a duck makes? The meal was 56 thb, including a soup and a Pepsi.

Driving rules in Thailand

2011-05-03T19:46:00.000+07:00

"8 years old juveniles driving 250cc motorbikes and adults carrying two children and a wife on the saddle must NOT sideways for safe entrance on the highway.”

Just kidding, but this pretty much explains the traffic today between Surat Thani and Khanom.

Surat Thani. The city hidden from the blind men's eyes.

2011-05-03T19:34:00.006+07:00

In a ranking of the most unfairly judged by the travel guides destinations Surat Thani would definitely make it into top ten.

Lonely Planet, considers the city as transit point for the better promoted Samui, Hua Hin or Pha Ngan. In other words, just a large bus station. Nothing to see. Wikipedia, in turn, describes it as "a town with no tourist attractions." Waste of time to stop.

I didn’t intend to stop either but I had to pick up Unirea’s documents, plus I wanted to personally check how non-attractive the city is. At first glance, Lonely Planet, Wikipedia and other sources were right. Going down the main road, which crosses the settlement from east to west, Surat Thani presents all the parameters of the Asian urban areas: congestion, dust, too many people and too many motorcycles that seemed to flow to nowhere.

Towards this world I left yesterday morning at 7.00, after only 4 hours of sleep (whoever said travel writing is a dream job is kindly requested to take that back). I walked up and down the river, coming close to the banks, wandering among the hundreds of channels which make the city look like the Tapi tree branches. Fishermen cottages are lined one after another, remote, shaded by palm wreaths, decorated with flowers and small altars and a boat parked nearby.

May you be guided by luck and turn right, you’ll find a different Surat Thani. You discover the Tapi River, the backbone and heart which makes sense of this city. The cliff is quiet, dotted here and there by small terraces selling duck, grilled pork and vegetable soup. Children dance and play carefully watched by the syrup and candy vendors. And the lights of the other shore, of the island and the village of Nai Bang Bangla, promise another world.

Less than half a kilometer away of Surat Thani, all the fuss, all urban nonsense is gone, washed away by the warm honey-like river water. Life is pure and sincere, starting with the birds greetings ending with the river traffic partners. If I had known earlier that there is a home-stay program in Bangla, certainly I would have stayed here one night. Or more. Or all.

I didn’t, though, so I have to return to Surat Thani, the city where there's nothing to see. I hope you come with me.

Surat Thani. The trees bearing fireflies.

2011-05-03T19:32:00.003+07:00

Day 1.
Location: Surat Thani
Mileage: 125

If residents of Surat Thani celebrated Christmas, they would not have to spend money on trees, stars or lights. They have them ready-made, for free.

Mr. Panu is the king of all the boatmen working on Tapi river. At first I wasn’t thrilled of his idea about taking me to see the fireflies. I can see fireflies on my pourch, mostly on the nights I have to many beers.

- Come on, come on, it's nice. You never see before.

The long-tail boat slipped into the night, engine revving. The river carried us towards the Gulf of Thailand. Eyes wide open I was trying to spot the fireflies. Instead the one million mosquito’s army was surrounding me, shinning a bit to tell the truth, probably to see their way towards my skin. Once the house lights diminished Mr. Panu exclaimed as if it was the first time for him too:

- Look, look, hin Hoi, Hoi hin!
- Hoi Hin?
- Fireflaaai!

A 5 meter tall in front of us was shinning like a Christmas tree. Small white lights flickering in a cheerful and lively bustle. Must have been two to three hundred fireflies. A whole colony. The first colony, because in the next 30 minutes, we visited others. Each cluster of palm-trees was a firefly-tree. We had blue skies and a moon in the last quarter. The creatures were swarming around the crowns their lights mixing with the stars.

As expected, I didn’t manage to take pictures. The firefly’s light, strong enough for human eyes, is too poor for a camera. The swinging boat made impossible to even install the tripod. I tried however to create some piece of photographic art which you can see below. To give an impressionistic title, we'll call it "Fireflies mixed with stars, seen from the turning of a boat on the Tapi river.”

Surat Thani: theater, dance and good people

2011-05-03T19:24:00.006+07:00

When King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) has decided in 1915 to baptize the city "City of Good People" he must have known Thepsin Pongkaew’s ancestors.

Thepsin is fully employed by the Tourism Authority of Thailand, also helps the local radio and television and manages a school where 40 young people learn about the traditional arts of Nang Yai (shadow theater) and Manora dance. Of the 40 students, 10 are either orphans or come from broken families. Thepsin is their mother and father.

As if all that was not enough, Thepsin was blessed with the responsibility of the crazy Romanian journalist wandering around Thailand on a saleng. He booked my accommodation, took care of the motorbike papers and showed me to the hotel. He also arranged a nice program for the evening.

- There is a theatrical and dance show. My kids are performing. Would you like to join us? It takes place in the small park by the river bank.

Thepsin’s children sang and danced until late, to the delight of bystanders who, on the way home, stopped to remember who they are and where they come from. A show, a city, an evening that say about Thailand more than I could ever tell you.

D Day. From Koh Phangan to Surat Thani

2011-05-03T19:18:00.001+07:00

The boat was at 11, but I woke up at 7.30. I could not sleep. You know the feeling you get before starting a new adventure. There was me on the ferry plus whatever was left of the Full Moon Party: some speakers, lights, a local singer and a few tired farangs. Unirea went first as a big international star that it is.

We left Thong Sala at 11 o'clock sharp. The weather was beautiful, postcards type. Only a large oil slick off the Samui coast spoiled the perfect blue waters. Once that was gone, I noticed a needle fish jumping above the waters and I regained my good mood.

Luckily the first 30 kilometers the road was clear, barely few partners in the traffic. Highway flowed smoothly, Unirea was going straight, I could have easily changed to autopilot. The only problem was the sun which was unbelievably strong. Long was gone the sea breeze and the cool forest.

As I approached Surat Thani, the horror stories I had read were turning to reality. Trucks started to drive by me, huge monsters spitting smoke, dust and pebbles on our tiny crew. None gave a damn about us driving on the side of the road, cars and trucks were taking over in full speed, and smiling faces were curiously watching us from behind the shields. Look, a farang driving a saleng!

Unirea couldn’t care less about it. Although over loaded, it run smoothly and didn’t cause any trouble. The thing which worries me is the fuel consumption. If I don’t avoid the big cities where traffic is ferocious, it will stay at 2 litters per the hundred which is quite a bit for such a small vehicle.

It took just over an hour to cross the 70 miles to town. Dusty, polluted and crowded as any city in Asia, confirming its status as the transportation hub of the province. People only come to Surat Thani to leave further. Going to Samui, Hat Yai, Phuket and Krabi. The only white persons I saw were rounded cluster at the bus station or in front of the travel agencies.

The city is the capital of the homonym province, which includes among other islands Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan, Koh Tao, Ang Thong National Park and Khao Sok. Surat Thani means "city of good people", the name bestowed by King Rama VI.

It took me one hour to find the TAT office. It was on Thalad May Road, the street I first drove into the city. I didn’t see it neither the first nor the second or the third time I passed. Well, I missed on telling you a secret: I love to wander, that's why I never look carefully around, what if I get where I am supposed to get!?

I went also to the Transportation Office to get my papers. Now I am perfectly legal. I have registration, insurance and road tax stamp. I didn’t have time for the driving license. I will try again next week in Nakhon Si Thammarat.

TAT booked me a room at The One Hotel. The girls at the reception had not received the message that a great Romanian journalist was coming and they attempted to negotiate the price. Went down from 850 to 650 thb, which is a fine price for what it has to offer. Three stars, clean, cozy, warm water, beautiful room, close to the Tapi River. Complimentary Wi-Fi and working well too. I recommend it in case you want to stay two, three nights and enjoy the city. If you want to visit it, I’ll give a few good reasons to reconsider.

It's been one day only and I am ridiculously tanned – half of the arms and legs, face and neck. No pictures, the internet has enough perverts already.

10 reasons to call my motorbike "Unirea"

2011-05-03T19:15:00.003+07:00

Okay, I took a decision. The beauty here will be called UNIREA (The Union). Here are a few reasons:

1. Because Dumitrescu suggested it. Real genius!
2. Because the blue colour matches the one of UNIREA Urziceni, my favorite football team.
3. The saleng itself came out of a beautiful union between the Honda Dream and a skilfully designed sidecar. Unirea was born out of welding and bolts.
4. I can easily make new friends. While riding the saleng as a farang, all Thai people smile and wave.
5. I can take fellow travelers with me. We won’t be fast but we will have fun. The union into traveling.
6. There will be a close union between me and the vehicle as I am supposed to ride the thing many hours per day for quite a long time.
7. It helps me unite the points on the map of Thailand.
8. It gives me the opportunity to be in permanent contact with the nature I love so much. I can hear the birds and the waves and the rustling leaves. A true communion.
9. Thanks to this saleng I have the chance to get close to Thailand, it’s beauties and it’s amazing people.
10. Last, but not least, this project is meant to bring Romanians and Thais closer. Whenever they meet, they will have at least my crazy trip as a debate subject.

Unirea shall be the name!

Guess what almost ruined my plans?

2011-05-03T19:12:00.002+07:00

The last thing I thought I need to worry about became cruel reality: insect bites allergy. Two weeks ago I spent one night in the hospital because I was pinched by a flying ant. My whole body was swollen, rashes all over, blood pressure dropped dramatically and I was shivering at 25 degrees. I got better after that night under medical supervision.

But now I cannot stop seeing it as a handicap– imagine the irony to be happening to me, a nature lover! I am not allergic to anything else – not dogs, cats, pollen, medicines, no food whatsoever. I am in real danger only if I walk barefoot on the grass. Right what I like to do the most.
As my journey includes mostly off-the-beaten-tracks, there is a risk to meet the nasty ants again, in areas with no medical facilities. Precocious measures should be taken for the safety of yours truly.

I went to see Dr. Worawut in Thong Sala yesterday. He is young, kind, friendly, and fluent in English. I presented the problem. Ideally, he says, would be to carry adrenaline injections at all times. Only adrenaline, if not injected properly, destroys the heart of the patient. We finally settled for a less effective but risk-safe solution: cortisone shots, injected directly into the muscle, plus antihistamine tablets, anti-itching creams, anti-I-don’t-know-what. I have a whole bag of medicines now which I will keep at hand every minute of the trip.

Dr. Worawut's practice

If - God forbid - I am pinched by the killer ant again, I will turn into Rambo and things to my arms in the middle of the jungle, surrounded by wild animals. That would be funny, indeed, but I hope you won’t have the chance to read such stories.

Touring Thailand on a saleng - the attempted route

2011-05-03T19:10:00.003+07:00

Koh Pha Ngan to Donsak by ferry. Two days in Surat Thani. Down on the cost to Sichon with one stop at Khanom Beach. Four days in Nakhon Si Thammarat, Two or Three Days in Kiriwong. Further to the South to Haat Yai and Songkla, Satun and I cross to the West and off to the islands. Back on the mainland I drive North to Trang. And then hurry to Bangkok to meet the TAT team.

Bonus: one week in Myanmar, by plane (I am not allowed to bring my saleng to Burma).

Going back to Bangkok and hurry to the North to spend the Songkran (New Year) close to Chiang Rai, in a small village on the Mekong river. I turn East (have not finished research on this part) and mov South to catch the ferry from Chumporn to Koh Pha Ngan.

This is more or less it. Approximately 5,000 kilometers on the coast, through the mountains, jungles and rice paddies driving 50km/h top.

People around here say I am crazy. None has ever tried to tour Thailand on a saleng. But, as the Chinese say, one thousand li road always begins with the first li.

The luggage is ready, I am ready!

2011-05-03T19:08:00.002+07:00

The last hundred yards of preparations. Ten minutes ago I called the Honda dealer in Samui. Plates arrived, and papers are expected:

"Big chief must sign the papers. But today is holiday."

It seems Thailand is on a permanent holiday. However, I can not afford to lose time.

After a week of measurements, waiting, re-measuring, cutting, sewing, drilling, stapling, last night I finally had the tarpaulin ready for Unirea. Blue, of course. With this and the raincoat, I can drive on any weather, without worrying about getting wet.

The luggage consists of:

Snorkeling equipment for marine parks on both coasts
Small camera and its underwater case (thanks Bogdan!)
Big camera with three lenses (18-200, 10-20 and 35 mm), filters, tripod, batteries as many as can fit in
Video camera (although lately it didn’t wok properly, most likely from humid air around here)
Spare tire
Pump
Maps
The drum I got as a present for my birthday – I take it just in case I find some opportunity to use it - The harmonica
A 320 GB digital passport to store the photos I take while traveling - Two pairs of shoes
Some clothes
First aid kit.
I also need a container but I still haven’t found one at the shops on the island, I’ll check on the mainland.

The route is planned, I'm ready, you're ready. Still waiting for the papers to be ready. Come on, big chief, we are in a hurry.

Transportation in Thailand: how to capture and use a saleng

2011-05-03T18:00:00.004+07:00

The animal in the picture, known as saleng can often be seen on the streets, alleys and boulevards of Thailand. Less on the highways. The saleng proud owners are often people with large families or pancakes, chicken or ice cream vendors. The saleng is a large animal.

Although cumbersome and slow, it is impossible to capture the creature. Once it founds a master it remains loyal forever. If you want a saleng, you must build it.

It usually happens like this. You go to a Honda dealer and buy a Honda Dream. The model is very popular due to the reliability and very low maintenance costs. An oil change - which is 4,000 kilometers - costs 4 euros. Plus the 125cc geared motor it’s strong enough. Once you have the Honda, go to a local motorbike shop and order the sidecar.

If the master knows what he’s doing, the side-car will come equipped with suspension, lights and signalling. Do not forget to order a bench as you will often be asked for rides from your friends.
First time you mount, the saleng proves restive. Nothing about the smooth flight before attaching the sidecar. No. The shaking handlebar is pushing the animal out of the street and you need strong arms and concentration to keep it on the right direction. Once any luggage loaded it becomes even more difficult.

After the first 350 kilometers the statistics say:

To be safe I must not exceed 50km/h - the consumption is about 1.25 liters per hundred, but when loaded this will slightly increase. Altogether, a full three liters is enough for 200 kilometers. - on tight curves I shouldn’t drive faster than 30km/h as the animal gets unbalanced - if I take my hands off the handlebar for 3 seconds, I will surely fly off the road
If I fly off the road, I am kinda fucked because there is no way to jump off the motorbike - left leg is caught between motorcycle and sidecar.
All Thai people laugh when they see me, because a farang driving a saleng is a curious and rare thing to happen around.

My neighbor, who handles this kind of vehicle for years now told me two things:

1. Driving the saleng is like doing push-ups only horizontally.
2. Once you get used to it, you can have great fun it speeding on curves until the sidecar wheel gets off the ground.

While I expect to fully benefit of the first matter to keep in shape, I hope never to experience the second, not even accidentally.

Thus accessorized, the saleng is ready for short trips – shopping, taking the kids to the kinder garden, carrying groggy friends from the Full Moon Parties. But to turn it into a cruiser, we must also add a tarpaulin and an additional basket to transport items that might fall through the sidecar bars.

Riding this I will cross Thailand from east to south, from west to north, 4-5,000 kilometers in 7 weeks. It's ready. I equipped it with everything necessary but I still haven’t got a name for it.
Will you help me with this?

UPDATE: Voting session closed. The saleng will be known by the name Simsek ("flash" in Turkish), in memory of a beautiful and quiet pony that walked me through Kapadokia.

UPDATE TO UPDATE: I changed my mind. I’ll call it UNIREA (great idea, Dumitrescu!)